![]() Fuel pumps are designed to pump liquid, not air, and the increased pressure inside the fuel lines keeps the fuel pump from being able to keep the fuel moving. Vapor lock happens when the temperature of fuel gets high enough to transform liquid into a vapor state. But, proper use of thermal barriers is helpful in preventing vapor lock, no matter how hot the day gets. ![]() If you’re a racer, it can put the car on the trailer well before you’re ready to leave the track. Whether you have a carburetor or use fuel-injection in your vehicle, vapor lock can bring your vehicle to a standstill causing hours of frustration. If you’re wondering how to prevent vapor lock, try using a thermal barrier like a heat shield, or heat sleeve. Oh well, we'll see if it happens again, as our Pacific Northwest temperatures continue to cool as summer winds down.How To Prevent Vapor Lock Using Thermal Barriers It sounds like there might not be either. I thought maybe there was some sort of a "known issue" with the Super "E" and, therefor, a known work around. It just runs so, so good, that I cannot believe it's a tuning problem. I'll keep going as-is and see if this problem rears its ugly head again. So, yeah, some things to look at and consider. That made it fire right up, which on a hot motor, shouldn't happen. This was kind of borne out with yesterday's difficult starting being alleviated by pulling up on the enrichener. If anything, it's gone lean, with nothing in there to light. Subsequent kicks are first tried without introducing any more fuel whatsoever. Like I said, if it fails to fire on that one remaining "trapped charge" after it gets shut down, it's because it coughed that charge out the intake. I'm not sure how it could possibly be flooded. It came with the kit from S&S, so I figured they meant us to use it. I have run the 1/4" insulator block, with the o-ring, since I installed the carb back in the late '80's. I swear the darn thing would probably idle away a full tank of gas, like a semi tractor in Prudhoe Bay. It's good to check every now and then, though.Īs far as the idle adjustment, I have to admit - with a bit of embarrassment - that I cannot remember the last time I actually adjusted it. Both springs are in great shape, both pivot pins are still round, and the holes in the flyweights are not worn. I took it all apart and lubed it, just to be sure. You gave me a few things to think about and to go look at. ![]() Not insurmountable, just pretty annoying. Waste that first one, though, and it's "game over". Unless it fires on the first kick, which it will 90% of the time. Yet, when it's hot out (low 90's), I swear I could kick it 30-40 times without so much as a sputter. Cut off 1 3/4 drag pipes with Cycle Shack slip-on mufflers, so no stock crossover tube to boil the float bowl. Old school Dyna ignition with stock flyweights. Jetting is 70/28, idle is set at 1,100 rpm. I typically crack the throttle 1/8-1/4 turn for a hot restart. This week, I resorted to pulling the enrichener up, and it likewise started on the first kick after a dozen or so unsuccessful attempts. Last week, I resorted to wheeling it into the shade and waiting half an hour as I quaffed some Gatorade. Once that one has been evacuated without firing, the subsequent restart can be a real challenge. Alas, on a couple of occasions now, it has "carb farted" that one trapped charge on which we restart after a brief stop, with the attendant mist and cough through the air cleaner. I thought, after 43 years of building a relationship with one another, that all of this would be behind us by now. In the last few weeks, with temperatures a bit above the norm here in Washington, I've been stung a couple of times trying to hot start the bike after refueling.
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